(Budapest, Eötvös u. 25a, 1067) I told myself that if I went out and got slightly badgered on Friday night I would wake up Saturday afternoon, walk the 600 meters to Biwako, and allow the healing powers of Ramen to enter my system.
I followed the plan despite all obstacles, including intense rain and no umbrella. Found the place, was greeting by two lovely waitresses and an old sleeping Japanese man in the corner. Got my seat, ordered a Miso Ramen with pork and egg, and a Kirin. To review this ramen would be easier by breaking it down into distinct categories: THE BROTH: Average, lacking any sort of umami, no depth, no real re-spoonable taste. THE NOODLES: Possibly some of the worst ramen noodles i've had since Sapporo in Oslo. I order mine HARD in Japan, but these had the texture of raw noodles or noodles cooked in lukewarm water. THE PORK: Extremely salty, decent texture and flavour apart from the saline overload. THE EGG: Utterly forgettable. Overcooked, half the yoke was missing, no marinade. THE TOPPINGS: Dead, soggy spinach? Strange, and very overpowering intense spring onion, far more acrid than anything I had in Japan or elsewhere to be honest. 4/10 (Because the service was good and the pork, although salty, gave it an extra point)
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(7.101.01 & S7.101.00 Pavilion Elite, 168, Jalan Raja Chulan, Bukit Bintang, 55100) To be honest I wasn't expecting to find amazing ramen in Malaysia. No offence, but I was obviously hoping for my umpteenth visit here to discover new Laksa, Tamil and Chinese food. Doing some due diligence before I read about this ramen place, and a couple more I am trying out in the next few days.
Bari-Uma do a Tonkotsu Shoyu style ramen, a little darker and stronger than regular Tonkotsu places in Japan. The egg is not sliced (bummer, cause I personally think it adds so much more character to the bowl, and means you don't have to bite into the entire egg at once and leave half of it floating around but can choose to eat half of it first to cleanse your palette and then the rest later... not to mention seeing how well the egg is cooked UP FRONT), but horses for causes. The broth was fantastic. A rich, but not overpowering blend of richness and umami. The egg was rather forgettable, but the pork was absolutely amazing. Succulent, tender, good ratio of fat vs meat, and grilled on both ends to caramelise (not scorch), the meat so it avoided tasting like propane but had a rich, deep, beautiful flavour to it. The noodles were home-made and cooked al-dente. No complaints. Solid, solid ramen adventures on my first proper Ramen trip in KL. Lots more to follow, all my previous visits have been lost since my iphone died. Damn Apple. 8/10 ( Jalan Pantai Berawa,Tibubeneng, Kuta Utara, Tibubeneng, North Kuta) So you're in Bali, and everywhere around you are shops with freaking EAT PRAY LOVE bowls and Avo-Mash-Spirulina-Wheatgrass bullshit smoothies. I'm sorry, but after a heavy night of inebriation, the best remedy is not this healthy foo-foo, its a bowl of gawdayum Phõ.
Unfortunately, my hotel was 200 meters away from this one, and it came recommended by some backpackers who probably have never even been to Vietnam. I rolled up there, sunglasses on, sat in the furthest possible point away from other human beings, ordered my Beef Phõ and sucked down on my cold coke. The weather was hot. It was humid. Nothing was helping the hangover so far. My soup finally came, and I could tell just by looking at it this was all wrong. -The noodles were not rice noodles they resembled tagliatelle -The beef was horrendous.. Overcooked, chewy, complete disaster -The basil was not Vietnamese so it threw off the entire flavour -The onions were cut super thick which messes up the whole balance -They heaped a huge spoon of Hoisin sauce IN the bowl without asking This was an exercise in futility. I slurped as much goodness as I could gain from this mediocre bowl of sustenance and left shrouded in fear and longing. There must be better ways to cure the aching of the soul in Bali. 4/10 (Jl. Subak Sari No.14, Tibubeneng, Kuta Utara) After meeting a Japanese couple the night before at my guesthouse and talking Ramen for the better part of an hour, I woke up this afternoon with the pangs for a hearty bowl. I googled RAMEN NEAR ME and lo and behold, there was a Ramen shop run by a Japanese fellow 800 meters away. I hurtled over on my scooter, sat in a place that afforded privacy and introspection and ordered the spicy miso ramen.
The service was good, albeit a bit too attentive. The food came quickly and I remembered to take a photo before digging in. The broth itself was pretty standard, the weird kimchi-style relish on the top was a bit odd and in retrospect I should have discarded it instead of mixing it in with the soup. It created an unpleasant raw-garlic flavour to the whole dish and even now 45 minutes later I can still taste that sharp, acrid flavour. The pork was flavoursome but tough, the egg was overcooked completely, and the noodles were standard. I won't be back again, but i'm glad I tried it so I can warn other travellers of their impending fate. 5/10 (KLIA Airport) On my last trip to Hong Kong I almost ate at Toast Box because it was highly recommended by some locals for their Laksa. Having spent an enormous amount of time over the years in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia I am a massive fan of a well prepared Laksa.
After the arduous check-in process, made even worse by the fact that their meaning of "Bag-drop" is to line up with all the other 400 people who haven't checked in online anyway, rendering the entire process futile. Lets just say by the time I had gotten through security I was hangry, and quite shocked to see Toast Box in the departure area. I lined up, ordered my laksa, waited 5 minutes and hurried to a seat in the furthest corner of the room. Tragedy. Utter tragedy. First off: I think tofu is one of the most intensely disgusting foods on earth. It serves absolutely no purpose. It tastes exactly like wet cardboard and nobody can argue with me on that. Second: The prawns were dry and cold and overcooked. Thirdly: The broth was powdery and grainy and had basically no flavour. Fourth: The noodles were overcooked. This was exactly how NOT TO COOK a laksa, and they were doing it at the airport in MALAYSIA? Wonders never cease. I struggled through enough tastes to decide that it was not worth pursuing even tho the hunger pangs were aching. I pushed the bowl away and dejectedly looked for a bar instead. 1/10 (318 Rama I Rd, Khwaeng Pathum Wan, Khet Pathum Wan) Just when you thought you had nailed the 3 best ramens in Bangkok, Ramen Kio comes in and sweeps the rug from under your feet. First taste, hmmm... decent, second taste, better.. third taste AHHHHH.. This is not the usual fatty Tonkotsu that lines your mouth with glistening fat on the first sip and leaves you reaching for a toilet or bottle of liquor. This is the slow burn, the creeper. Just when you thought you understood its depths it opens up more and slaps you in the face. This is Tonkotsu without all the faffing around. The eggs are divine, could not be better. The pork was sublime, tender as hell and melted before you even applied pressure. The noodles (medium or thin option) were solid, and the broth itself was a gift that kept giving.
By far better than every single ramen place in Bangkok, except Bankara... but its a close battle. They are definitely the 2 best places in Bangkok as of now. 9/10 Ramen Danbo (a8/12a Thái Văn Lung, Bến Nghé) My last experience with Ramen Danbo was patiently waiting in line in Naha, Okinawa while 30 or more Chinese tourists stood in front of me all vying for a spot at the counter. I managed to get in after about 20 minutes and sat as far away from other humans as possible. Ramen is alone time. Ramen is not the chance to make new friends. Ramen has to be studied and enjoyed and savoured without the folly of conversation. If in doubt, just watch Tampopo, and pay close attention to the scene when the old man is teaching the young man about eating Ramen. This is gospel. This is why I named a pop-up ramen place in Oslo after the film.
The bowl arrived steaming hot. Everything was perfect. It tasted identical to the one in Japan. This time I was with some friends, but the enjoyment was still true. The noodles were firm, the broth deep, unctuous and rich, the pork thin and succulent, the egg cooked to perfection. No negatives to say about my second time at Danbo. It may be in a different country, but they are keeping their standards sky-high. 9/10 (Ho Chi Minh, 8a/1c1 Thái Văn Lung ) The three of us jumped in an Uber and snaked our way through the insanity that is the streets of Ho chi Minh. I had read that this place was supposedly serving up the quintessential authentic Japanese shoyu Ramen in town. We spent the better part of 20 minutes walking in circles inside the small Japanese enclave, but finally we managed to find it before they closed for an afternoon break. The excitement was palpable. Our first real ramen experience in Vietnam. Lets see how they stand up against other countries in the region.
First impressions were great. 3 jolly Japanese chefs all small-talking in the kitchen whilst a salaryman slurped to his hearts content and offered the warmest praise whilst leaving. The bowls arrived. First sip: HEAVEN! This was up there with some of the best Shoyu Ramen I have ever tasted. The broth was deep, fatty, full of umami. The egg, perfectly cooked, the noodles al-dente, the pork melt-in-your-mouth. The Sapporo beer did nothing to diminish the charming meal. With full stomachs we gladly paid the 4 Euros and headed out into Saigon's belly with fresh optimism and belief that life is perhaps a gift, and not a chore. 8.5/10 (233 Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1, Saigon) After 5 visits to Vietnam, travelling from North to South over a span of 6 years, I finally found the best Phô ever! Ironically it's at the end of a shitty backpacker street, but don't let that dissuade you. Packed to the brim with locals and tourists, this 3 story behemoth stands on a corner with a few tables outside for you to enjoy your soup with the added aroma of exhaust.
Huge bowls of perfectly simmered broth, deep and satisfying, good noodles and tender Brisket makes this place a sure-fire winner on all points. Some places have tweaked a few elements of their bowls, but this place has the best over-all bowl of Phô. HANDS DOWN! 10/10 No Contest (5 Gough St, Central, Hong Kong) The first thing I did upon touching down in wonderful Hong Kong was to text a friend: "Best Ramen in HK?". His reply: "Shugetsu".
We headed over from Kowloon on the star ferry and walked a fair few blocks until we hit Gough Street only to see a large crowd gathered outside waiting to be seated. We put our names down on the list and headed out to drink some beer while we waited. The expectation was growing. Finally after about a 30 minute wait we were ushered in to the back where the 5 of us could all sit together. Having read that they make their own noodles, and use a base-sauce for their broth which is fermented for 18 months in a 100 year old wooden basket just added to the curiosity. It did not disappoint. Rich, deep, flavoursome soup, great noodles, perfectly executed meat, and a 6 minute egg. No wonder they are in the Michelin Guide. If you are in Hong Kong be sure to check out this spot before the lines start getting even longer. 9/10 (51 Parkes St, Jordan, Hong Kong) It may look plain, but the devil is in the details. Those shrimp wontons are plump, perfectly cooked and delicious. The broth is rather flavoursome for being so "thin-looking". Decent noodles and not much else makes up a perfectly respectable way to spend an evening in Hong Kong.
There is always a crowd, which is proof that these cats know what they are doing. 7/10 (55 Nguyễn Cư Trinh, Hồ Chí Minh) This Phô place was basically 30 meters from my Airbnb and came highly recommended by a friend. I blindly walked across the road confronting a million scooters all swaying wildly around me, the hangover shaking off the last dregs of fear, and seated myself at the back away from as many people as possible. The bowl arrived within a couple of minutes and at first glance it looked decent.
Looks can be deceiving. This was one of the more mediocre Phô I ever ate in Vietnam. The broth was wish-washy, no real structure or depth of flavour to it. The meat was chewy and the noodles were basic. Not worth risking life and limb crossing major roads in Vietnam for. 4/10 (413-415 Nguyễn Trãi, Phường 7, Quận 5, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam) Being able to almost correctly judge food based on it's appearance is a tricky business. Most of the time you get surprised, but quite often you also are bang on. After clambering on the back of a Grab Taxi Scooter and hurtling at 60mph through the insane Ho Chi Minh traffic I arrived at Phô Le. A local favourite. I was excited to see what all the fuss was about since the reviews online were generally flattering and trustworthy.
I'm beginning to see a pattern developing when locals recommend something in Vietnam. They prefer the "weaker, thinner broth" whereas I prefer the bolder, deeper flavours of Phô Quynh. The Phô ended up squarely in the middle of the pack, the broth was almost tasteless, the noodles on point, the meat a slight improvement on a couple of other spots, and the price was agreeable. However, like in Japan where most locals enjoy really really heavy/fatty Tonkotsu, the Vietnamese seem to prefer the lighter things in life, and that just ain't my bag baby. 6/10 (25 Hàng Giầy, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội) If you're ever in Hanoi, a good bet would be to start your evening inebriations with a visit to King Pirates and drink a gin tonic with Madame Thu. Her heavy pours will soon have you hankering for a bowl of loving Pho, and as luck would have it, 40 meters down the road is Pho Vui.
A tiny, slightly rough around the edges, place guaranteed to put a smile on your face with the rich broth, tender meat, perfect noodles and condiments, and all for a fraction of the price of most tourist traps. This is a definite hole-in-the-wall discovery that you'll keep going back to. 7.5/10 ( Soi 10, Maharat Road, Krabi Town 81000) If you happen to spend an extra night in Krabi town on your way to the amazing islands nearby, do not miss out on this. Head down to the night market, EARLY!!, because this sells out before 7pm usually. Find the Khao Soi stall, its a lady standing with 4 big pots of different meats simmering on the counter, and some condiments in front to personalise your bowl. It costs 50 Bhat!! And tastes absolutely divine. Great, thick, flavoursome broth, the soft and crunchy noodles, and slow-cooked tender beef.
7/10 (23/12-13 ซอย ธนิยะ Silom 2/1, Suriya Wong) Slap bang in the middle of the worst prostitute and ladyboy area of Bangkok stands a bastion of peace and mercy. Uchidaya with windows looking out over hopeful girls, sitting in their mini-skirts praying for a Japanese businessman to take their fancy, its all a bit bizarre slurping noodles with the ongoings of the street playing out 2 meters away. This ramen though is distraction enough.
The broth is a fishier type of Tonkotsu with a serious umami bolt. The pork is top notch and the eggs perfection. They offer the option of thin or thicker noodles which I always love, and don't hesitate to get thick noodles cooked hard. Its a joy to behold, and reason enough to throw aside the anxiety of being seen in the seedier parts of town. This ramen hides all shame. 8/10 34, Soi Phiphat, Si Lom Road, Silom) Visit 2.
Having already reviewed the Tonkotsu style here, which was passable, I decided to try their signature Shoyu Broth needing a bit of a lighter bowl before heading to play pool at The Old Other Office. To be honest I haven't really found a decent Shoyu broth ramen in Thailand. I've tried a couple of places but they seem to nail the more popular Tonkotsu style, or Miso, but nowhere manages to capture the umami, deep, rich legendary broth of Kiraku in Tokyo. This was a downer. Thin, watery soup, bog standard noodles, run-of-the-mill meat and a half decent egg. At least the price is very reasonable here so you don't feel added indignation when the cheque arrives. They do lots of discounts during the week, maybe that's telling as to why their food is sub-par. 3/10 (34, Soi Phiphat, Si Lom Road, Silom) Perched on a rather naughty street in Bangkok, near all the strip clubs and ping-pong shows, Yamagoya faces stiff competition in a sea of other Ramen outlets. Korean and Japanese tourists plough the streets looking for cheap companionship fuelled by their full bellies.
I visited in Oct 2018. The place itself was not as cosy as a lot of Ramen shops. It felt more like a fast-food joint based on the decor. However, the Ramen arrived and I dug in. First off the soup was less fatty than most Tonkotsu places, but still packed a decent amount of flavour. The egg and noodles were rather forgettable, but the pork was nicely cooked. For the price its a decent option to quell any cravings, but overall there are far better places in Bangkok, even on the same street. 7/10 (23/8-9 ซอย ธนิยะ Si Lom, Suriya Wong) Right next door to the glorious hallways of Uchidaya lies another Ramen spot vying for business.
Ramen Tei. It looked suspect from the outside, and more so from the inside. Yet another establishment with too many items on the menu. However, I opted for the Shoyu Ramen and was mildly disappointed from the second it was placed in front of me. It didn't look deep, rich, interesting. What followed was 10 minutes of trying to find positives but struggling. To be fair it tasted better than it looked, but this is by no means a ramen anyone needs to hunt down. 5/10 (23/12-13 ซอย ธนิยะ Silom 2/1, Suriya Wong) The second visit to this great ramen bar was with a few fellow enthusiasts. The first time I was here I sat alone near the window finding it comical to be slurping down on ramen whilst outside the window hundreds of sex-crazed tourists bartered with street-girls for all sorts of filth.
This time we chose to sit further in the restaurant and tried 2 different styles. I tried the Uchidaya Ramen "Ajitama". A thick, flavoursome broth with the distinct fatty Tonkotsu taste, nicely cooked eggs, tender meat and the customary pile of spring onions. This place is definitely doing something right in a city that has stiff competition. I'd put my money on Bankara and Kio holding the top spot, but Uchidaya hangs on to a solid second place. 8/10 (43/1 สีลมสุรวงศ์คอนโด ซอยนราธิวาสราชนครินทร์ 1 ถนนสุรวงศ์ แขวงสุริยวงศ์ ) Every now and then you catch someone with their pants down. A pretender, a buffoon, a man playing chef. The warning signs were imminent when walking in and seeing a 300 dish menu. I almost wanted to turn and leave. Anyone who attempts that many dishes can't possibly do them right? RIGHT?
Right.... The Miso Ramen was insipid. Tasteless. The menma was cut so thick it spoilt the taste. The egg was butchered to hell and back. The pork was quite tasty but didn't save the dish from being squared at the bottom of the Bangkok ramen pile. Try learn constraint and perhaps he could turn out a couple decent dishes in the future. Ramen, on the other hand, is not his forté. 4/10 (1307/1 ซอย พหลโยธิน Phahonyothin Rd, Khwaeng Samsen Nai) We walked around Ari and Sanam Phao for hours looking at possible locations to start a bar. It was incessantly hot. Around 2pm we got pretty hungry so Kol, our local buddy, steered us to this very local and very basic looking beef noodle shop. For the princely sum of 40-60 bhat you could get a steaming bowl of authentic Thai-style beef noodle soup.
Unfortunately, sometimes local tastes and western tastes don't quite align. This was a stretch too far for me, with minimal broth that was very liver/oxtail tasting, not much noodles hidden under the meat which was mostly cartilage and gristle. I know the locals in many Asian countries adore this type of food, but for me I could hardly stomach it. After chewing on a piece of liver for a full minute trying to swallow it but failing each time, I had to give up and surrender. Thailand has a bounty of amazing culinary delights, for me this was not one of them. 2/10 (32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39, Bangkok) After spending months in Japan hunting the perfect bowl of Ramen, who would have guessed one of the top 10 was in Thailand!!
Situated at the back of The Manor, behind the car park, this gorgeously decorated Ramen Bar looks like its straight out of Shibuya. The service is generally excellent, the prices a tiny bit steep (but for quality like this you are happy to pay), the ramen/noodles/pork/egg are all absolutely top, top class. This is one of the best ramen places I have ever been to, outside of Japan, and even kills a lot of the places there too. 100% recommended. The Chashu Tonkotsu Ramen is absolutely mindblowing. 10/10 (Griffenfeldsgade 28, 2200 København N) Mikkeller cannot sit still for a goddamn second. High on the fluid skies of creating a million different craft beers, not to mention opening a taco-spot in Bangkok??? I had to go try the hipsters high heaven temple of Japanese kitsch in Denmark this past summer.
It's a small place on a corner in Nørrebro, flushed with the token Japanese ticket machine to order from. All this smells wannabee. Well, the proof is in the pudding as they say. We ordered the Yuzu Shio Ramen. 1. The noodles were house-made, but who cares when you bloody overcook them? Schoolboy error. 2. The pork was largely forgettable. 3. The broth was basically tasteless and boring. 4. The eggs were so over-cooked it literally should be forced Gulag for 10 years for doing this to a chickens potential family member. Unforgivable. I know the TRADITIONAL places in Japan do this, but its something most people over-look if all the other elements are excellent, but nobody in their right mind prefers a hard-boiled egg over a 6 min oozing yolk that adds richness and flavour to the noodles and broth. Hang the chef. He is a disgrace. 4/10 (Yliopistonkatu 5, 00100 Helsinki) Is it a salad or is it a bowl of Ramen? Who knows.
Finland has this annoying habit of putting tons of pointless ingredients in their Ramen, to perhaps hide the lack of flavour in anything else. The broth here was ok, but tasted more of chicken stock than anything else. The egg was a disaster, the meat was OK but the huge amount of weird shit like Rocket and Snap Peas just made it all the more difficult to take the place seriously. Helsinki failed to serve up one decent bowl. 5/10 |
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